Official Luthiers Forum!

My nephew wants me to build him a guitar.He`s got a bunch of really nice walnut.He`s already chopped up some for back and sides.He was wondering if I could use walnut for the bridge,rosette,head stock veneer,bridge plate, neck block and end blocks.I think it would probably be fine for head stock veneer and rosette,Not so sure about the rest.Wondering if any of you had any ideas on this.And I would like to add a great big THANKS to all the folks on this forum who have helped me out from time to time.I`m not a huge poster or anything like that.Just not a big talker. But I`ve learned a lot from other posts and archives And the questions I`ve had in the past.So everyone have a great holiday.I know I will because I`m getting some Madagascar Rosewood in the mail tommorrow.Oops got company got to go
James W B

_________________
James W Bolan
Nashville Tennessee

You could use the walnut for the rosette,head stock veneer,bridge plate, neck block and end blocks... I wouldn't use it for the bridge though...

And please watch for grain orientation on the bridge plate and blocks...

_________________
Peter M.
Cornerstone Guitars
http://www.cornerstoneukes.com

Why not the bridge Peter? Too light? Might make a difference, black walnut or claro James?

You could also use it for the neck... I read something recently that indicated claro walnut was not good for necks but black walnut was fine. Don't remember where or why.

FWIW, I used walnut as the primary woods on my first OM, and although time will tell, the results were a nice looking and sounding guitar.
The back and sides, neck, headstock, rosette, and bridge are all walnut.

_________________
Give me 50 cents worth of regular.
Check my oil too, if you don`t mind,,,

On my last walnut guitar, I used walnut for back and sides, neck, end blocks, back bracing, headstock overlay, end graft, and heel overlay. I didn't, but I could have used it for kerfing and back center reinforcement as well.

Al

Let's put it this way: the only part of a guitar I would not want to use walnut for is the top. It works fine for bridges, so long as you make the saddle slot further back from the front edge than usual. It also helps to tilt the saddle slot back about 9 degrees. The back angle reduces the tipping force on the saddle, and the extra thickness in front helps resist split out.

Walnut is generally a little soft for fingerboards. Some of the 'enriched' stuff, with the lead shot in it, is pretty hard, though. Alan Carruth39063.6100925926

I know a well respected classical maker who uses walnut for bridges, the
lighter weight (lower density) helps to get the sound he's after.

Louis

_________________
- Louis Freilicher

Oh No! Not another learning experience!